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The set ups shown below are taken from a Formula 1 car example. They are therefore at the extreme end of the open wheel racing category and can be tuned back slightly towards zero from these figures for slower classes. The below figures are for dry weather and are a good base setting to be tuned from to driver preference.
Camber
Caster
Toe
Good day
I just bougth a kartcross car. is his set-u fair enougth for beginning with in my car?
it is rear wheel driving, with a good wheith/power relation, with tyres with long solders.
like a scale formula
Hi Carlos,
Thanks for the comment. Yes these settings could be a good starting point for your application.
would this be the prefered set up for a BAC mono with increased power and downforce?
Hi James,
Thanks for the comment. For the BAC with aero we would add slightly more rear camber around -1.5 degrees to begin with as a base setup.
As with all setups make sure to test on circuit and alter based on driver feedback and tyre data to fine tune the settings for your particular application and driving style.
Thanks
Suspension Secrets
I’m building a vintage class single seater, essentially a late 60’s era Formula 2 non-aero but rules say no slicks, tyres to look period so grip will be limited. You say dial back for slower cars which makes sense as a general term. I wonder about your front settings as having too much camber and toe-out? Can you suggest a starting point for a car like mine?